Russelia equisetiformis – firecracker plant

Russelia equisetiformisGrown in many parts of the world, the Russelia is among the most common garden plants and is easily recognizable for its bright red or white blossoms in the shape of tall slim vases. This plant is often used to hide unattractive walls or fences, because of its thick greenery. It grows up to 5,9 feet tall. Because of its height, the Russelia is suitable for growing in hanging pots. The charming blossoms of the Russelia attract birds and insects (such as bees), that feed on its nectar.

The Russelia likes sunny spots. In summer – take it on the balcony under direct sunlight; to provide it with the necessary warmth and light during winter, put the plant by a window facing south and make sure the temperature is about 15ºC.

Watering

In summer, the plant requires plenty of water, but before you water it, make sure the upper layer of soil is dry. Make sure the roots do not retain water. In winter, it requires very little watering and the water temperature should be close to the room temperature – major differences in temperature do not benefit the plant.

Propagation

This plant propagates in summer through sprouts or cuttings. During the active period of growth, feed with mineral fertilizer. In spring, transplant it in a middle sized pot filled with clay garden soil.

Rafflesia arnoldii – the biggest flower in the world

Rafflesia arnoldiiOne of the great wonders of the world of plants is the Rafflesia arnoldii (member of the Rafflesiaceae family). This plant has no leaves, stem or roots. The only thing it has is one huge flower, one meter in diameter, weighing up to 8 kg (16 lbs).

You can see the Rafflesia only in the tropical steppes of the islands of Borneo and Sumatra. It was discovered in the 1818 by the English traveler Dr. Joseph Arnold during his expedition on the island of Sumatra.  Here is what he writes in his diary about his first impressions from the Rafflesia:

 

In Paolo Lebas, near river Manna, I accidentally came across the biggest, at least in my view, wonder of nature. I’ve separated from the group for a while when one of my Malaysian servants run up to me his face full of limitless wonder started shouting: “My lord, come with me quickly, a huge flower, wonderful, unusual!”. I followed him and in about 100 meters I spotted a huge flower, growing directly from the ground. To be honest, if I was by myself, without any witnesses, I would probably not dare to even mention the size of this flower. It was so much bigger than the flowers we are used to. I was lucky to be accompanied by Sir Stemford, Mrs. Riffles and the respectful Mr. Polsgrave – a local resident. Although they were surprised as much as I was, they could testify that I was telling the truth. The flower was exactly one yard (92 cm) in diameter. This was astonishing.

The plant’s name originates from the name of its discoverer as well as from the name of his fellow explorers – The Riffles family.

The Rafflesia arnoldii is a parasite plant which attacks the crawling roots of the lianas from the Tetrastigma genus. Its sticky seeds sprout on cracked crest. The parasite penetrates the tissue of the plant-host and forms a small colorful bud. At first it is not seen from the outside, but in 9 months a huge colorful bud shows on the surface of the stem. A huge flower with five mushy petals, close to 2 centimeters in thickness is seen when the flower opens up. The flowers are red, and their surface is covered with yellow spots which helps them mimic rotten meat. This impression grows with the strong smell of carrion coming from the Rafflesia. It can be sensed in a radius of 15 meters. Attracted by the “pleasant” smell, the insects from the Diptera order (Dipteral) attack the flower and pollinate it. We have to mention that the flower has a big gland which secretes nectar to attract the insects. It can produce up to 7 liters of nectar.

The Rafflesia often grows on routes used by elephants. According to some researchers, the elephants step on the plants and in this way transfer the seeds that have stuck to their feet. Rodents also distribute seeds by eating the flower’s fruit.

The art of flower arranging

Flower arrangementThe art of arranging flowers in bouquets and compositions originated thousands of years ago and is the expression of the human aspiration towards beauty and perfection.
This art is largely influenced by eastern cultures such as the Japanese, Indian, Chinese and the Persian. In these cultures, every flower has its meaning. The size and the count of flowers is also meaningful.

In the past, it was the housewives that did the arrangement. They decorated the rooms with flowers and arranged bouquets to be used for different occasions. The arrangement of beautiful flowers in vases and baskets and the creation of various artistic compositions was considered genuine pleasure and challenge.

Today, being a florist is a profession and true art which demands artistic fantasy, knowledge and skill. Nowadays florists have a large assortment of flowers and exotic greenery at their disposal which makes the job a lot easier. There is also a grate availability of ceramic, metal, wooden or knitted containers and baskets, and all sorts of bouquet arrangement accessories. The rich variety of new plant material from every corner of the planet makes the florists world unusually interesting and stimulates creativity. A genuine flower composition for an event will not only bring joy to their recipients but also to the florist who has created them.

Meaning of Roses

Red Rose

Copyright by Eva Moutisheva

The “language” of flowers has been most popular in Victorian England ages, at the peak of the so called “flower flirts”, conducted through flowers symbolizing different messages. One of the most popular flowers, the Rose, can represent different feelings depending on its color. A beautiful rose can change the atmosphere of a room and provoke positive emotions, but it also bears an unspoken message. Very often roses tend to say more than we, people, dare to reveal. For centuries they have had symbolic meaning, and there are some common features that remain even today.

  • The red rose is the trademark symbol of love. We give red roses only when we want to say “I love you!”, and in no other occasion. It is also important if the rose has fully blossomed or if it is still a rose bud. The rosebud signifies powerful feelings, which need to be kept in secret.
  • The white rose symbolizes loyalty and purity, it pleads “Trust me!”.
  • The yellow rose, which has often been considered to show hatred, actually means friendship. The slightly blossomed yellow Rose asks the question “Do you still love me?”, and the fully blossomed one says “Please, come back!”.
  • The pink rose symbolizes complete happiness and pleasure, but it also conveys the message of  secret love and admits “My heart belongs to you!”. The half blossomed pink color stands for true love. A fully blossomed flower, on the other hand, pleads “Trust what I say and do!”.
  • A combination of white and red Roses means “forever close”. This is where the symbolism used in funeral ceremonies comes from – when the petals of these flowers are spread around the grave of the deceased we actually try to say that this person will remain in our hearts forever.

The number of roses is also significant. A single rose means love, 12 roses show gratitude and respect, 25 roses are used for greetings, and the classical 50 or 100 rose’s bouquets symbolize eternal love.

How to grow Hibiscus from seed

Hibiscus speciesHibiscus naturally grow in warm, moist areas. To assure proper germination and growth, we recommend you emulate these conditions.

It is possible to sow hibiscus seed directly in the soil; if you do so, please remember some basics: Presoak the seed to help them germinate. They are coated with a natural cover that may prevent germination unless soaked. Some authorities recommend scoring seeds; we do not. Plant seed in a well-drained sunny location; avoid planting them near or under trees. Mark your growing spot with a labelled garden stake. If you are an experienced gardener and use a seed propagation system to start seed early indoors, you may find our instructions below helpful.

Step by step instructions

Follow these instructions for the best results. They have been tested to assure the best opportunity to grow Hibiscus in one growing season.

  1. Open the seed packet and place half of the seeds in a cup of warm tap water. We suggest soaking them overnight. This will “wake them up, telling them its time to start growing.” You should soak about five seeds and have a few seeds left over to soak and use later. You may want to start the remaining seeds in 5-6 weeks, again following these instructions.
  2. Open the plastic bag containing the growing media by simply removing the wire tie. Be careful not to spill the growing media.
  3. Add two tablespoons of water by pouring the water into the plastic bag containing the growing media.
  4. Twist the plastic bag at the top a couple of turns to close off the opening, and gently mix the growing media and the water to moisten throughout.
  5. After you have mixed the water into the growing media, spoon out the growing media into the peat pot. Fill the peat pot 3/4 full, using your thumb press the growing media into the peat pot. Add additional growing media and press down. Continue to add growing media and press it down until the peat pot is about 3/4 filled.
  6. Take the seeds out of the cup where they have been soaking overnight and place them on top of the growing media in the peat pot.
  7. Cover the seeds that you placed in the peat pot with some of the remaining moist growing media, and press it down. Continue to add more growing media and press it down until you have filled the peat pot level with the top.
  8. Set the planted peat pot aside, and now add two tablespoonfuls of warm tap water to the plastic growing cup.
  9. Now carefully lower the planted peat pot into the plastic growing cup. After you have inserted the plant label, cover it with the cup dome.
  10. With a pencil, label your seeds with name and planting date. Place the label into the peat cup by sliding it down the inside of one side of the peat cup, deep enough to allow the dome to close on the growing cup.
  11. Place the growing cup, with the dome tightly closed, in a warm location. The top of the television, refrigerator, cable box, radio, all provide a nice warm spot for the growing cup. Leave the cup in place until you notice that the seeds are sprouting and pushing the growing media up. Hibiscus seeds like to sleep and might take two-to-three weeks to wake up.
  12. Allow the seedlings to emerge for a day or two, and then move the growing cup to a bright window. Allow the seedlings to grow without disturbing them.
  13. NOTE: You should not add any additional water to the growing cup until the seedlings have completely emerged. A few seeds may not emerge as quickly as others, so after two or three have sprouted, move the cup to a bright spot. You may not have to water them for several weeks. If condensation forms on the cup or dome, simply open the ventilating hole in the top of the dome by pushing the plastic straw into the opening or peel back the vent sticker. If the peat cup appears dry (the sides are beginning to turn lighter brown), add about another 2 tablespoons of water. DO NOT PUT WATER ON THE PEAT POT OR SEEDLINGS. Pour the water along the sides of the growing cup, into the bottom of the cup. Allow the peat pot to soak up the water from the bottom. Continue to water as necessary using this method of watering. AGAIN, do not water the seedlings from the top by pouring water on to them or on to the peat cup and growing media.
  14. Also, the growing media has been blended with a starter fertilizer. Therefore, you do not have to fertilize the seedlings while they are in the peat pot.
  15. Continue to grow the seedlings in the peat pot until they are ready to transplant outside or into pots. They should have three or four mature leaves and be four to five inches high before transplanting. It is generally safe to put them outside when tomato and pepper seedlings can be planted in the vegetable garden in your area.
  16. Choose a sunny spot in your garden. Hibiscus will tolerate some shade during the day, but avoid planting them near or under trees. Mark your growing spot with the garden stake.

More tips for better gardening

WheelbarrowThe gardening advice below are for gardens located in southern areas.

Soil Preparation Secrets

Soil preparation is always a prime topic, especially because so many people live high-stress lives with less time than they’d like for doing major garden chores.

That said, don’t let flower gardens sit idle through the winter. Plant cover crops such as clover, vetch or winter rye. When you till in the spring, they’ll have done half the soil preparation for you.

Buying Plants, Instead of Growing Them from Seed

Another sign of the busy lives we lead was that all the garden editors had advice ready on buying plants, rather than growing them from seed. Here’s what they suggest.

  • If possible, buy container-grown trees rather than balled-and-burlapped ones. Balled-and-burlapped trees often lose much of their root system when they’re dug from the field.
  • You can usually judge the quality of a plant by the quality of care it receives in the nursery. If lots of plants are wilted and dying from lack of water, be very careful what you buy.
  • If you do purchase cell-pack annuals in bloom in the spring, cut back the flowers to help the plants establish good roots.
  • Try to purchase plants grown at local nurseries, so they will already be acclimated to your growing conditions.
  • Speaking of shrubs and trees, here’s some advice for handling the purchase of these more permanent landscape specimens.
  • Unless you are planting a top-heavy tree with a small root ball on a windy hillside, your tree will lead a longer, happier life if you don’t stake it. There’s more risk of damaging the bark with wire than there is of having a tree lean over.

The Key to Watering

The key to watering, if you don’t have an irrigation system, is to get a good-quality, kink-free hose. It will save loads of time and masses of irritation. But here’s a tip you might not have considered.

If you’ve got a few plants or blades of grass that the sprinklers skip, stick a garden fork into the ground. Wedge the end of a hose with a spray nozzle on it into the crotch of the handle. Turn the water on and let your makeshift sprinkler do the work, instead of your standing there like a human fountain.

Fertilizing

Departmental discussions of fertilizing bring out a little controversy, not from disagreement on techniques, but because some of our readers have acid soil and others deal with high alkalinity. Useful suggestions were as follows.

  • Lime lenten roses in fall if you have acid soil to increase the amount of bloom.
  • Never lime your soil if it’s already alkaline.
  • Flowers in containers need a constant source of nourishment. Feed every 10 days with a water-soluble fertilizer such as 15-30-15.
  • Test your soil and feed your soil–then the plants will feed themselves.

Pruning, Cutting Back, and Transplanting

  • The topic of pruning, cutting back, and transplanting brought these excellent tips.
  • Cut roses back in late August or early September, about four weeks before the weather is due to cool off in your area, for massive autumn bloom.
  • In January, cut back liriope with a string trimmer and cover the trimmed plants with mulch. It looks much tidier that way, and it grows back very clean and fresh, filling in completely by early summer.
  • Cut back long-blooming perennials in midsummer (July or August), and by fall you’ll have twice as many flowers on healthier, shapelier plants.

Pest and Weed Management

We have some unusual but useful tips about pest and weed management.

  • Flooding fire ant nests three or four times in a row with water from the hose will make the ants move out of a container or vegetable garden.
  • When preparing a non-selective herbicide such as ‘Roundup’, add a tablespoon of liquid hand soap to the mixture. It allows the herbicide to stick to the weeds better.
  • If you have a path or patio with a few weeds creeping in, reach for your teakettle. A nice dousing with boiling water will take care of most intruders.

Turf Grass

Some florists go out of their way to replace their lawns with flowerbeds or ground covers, but those who have the proper respect for turf grass offer the following:

  • When fertilizing turf with a granular fertilizer, try to apply it just before a rain so it will get well watered-in without you having to do it.
  • Don’t try to grow grass in shady areas. Plant ground covers instead, such as liriope and mondo grass, which thrive in shade.
  • Don’t plant grass on slopes. Instead use shrubs or ground covers that won’t need mowing.
  • Mowing the lawn is a good thing. It’s probably the only exercise you’ll get all week–and it’s free.

Planning a New Garden, or Dealing With an Existing One

If you are not skilled at design yourself, an excellent tips for planning a new garden, or dealing with an existing one is to hire a local designer to help you develop a plan that includes your priorities–guest parking, an area for outdoor entertaining, or beds for annual color.

And when something goes wrong in your garden, remember, you are not alone. In the words of the late, great garden writer, Henry Mitchell, “Everywhere there are violent winds, startling once-per-five centuries floods, unprecedented droughts, record-setting freezes, abusive and blasting heats never known before. There is no place, no garden, where these terrible things do not drive gardeners mad.”

Ten tips for growing plants in a winter garden

Winter gardenFor some time now, the winter gardens are turning into a familiar sight in most countries. They are planned as part of the newly constructed single-family houses. They usually take the form of a house extension or if there is no such extension, people improvise by using the glazed balconies in their block of flats.

Winter gardens vary from just a few square meters to the size of a spacious room, and this largely depends on our ability to take care of the specific plants we own. The tips we would like to offer refer to the major aspects in the selection, cultivation and arrangement of the plants in a winter garden.

 

  1. It is best for your garden to face North. This is so not only due to the better conditions which the northern exposure provides during the summer, but also due to the rather realistic threat of overheating of the plants even in wintertime, which imposes additional care for ventilation and preservation of the micro climate. During the summer, winter gardens with different than northern exposure must be aerated on a regular basis and for longer periods. This will reduce humidity, but increase possibility of pests. In the highlands, where temperatures are low in the summer eastern exposure is better than northern one. The Eastern exposure is useful for the sun shine on the winter garden during the morning hours, when the air is colder, and in this way reducing the possibility of overheating your plants, as compared to western or southern exposure.
  2. If possible, use a transparent roof instead of a non-transparent one. It provides direct sunlight to your plants from above, which decreases the chance of deformation caused by the search for more light. The transparent roof of the winter garden is a prerequisite for more light and for better development even of the not-so-much-light-loving plants. It is impossible to provide a transparent roof if you use your glazed balcony or a well-lighted room for a winter garden. The problem is, however, that the winter gardens with glass roofs are less isolated and require more heating expenditures.
  3. Planting of the plants directly into the soil is preferable due to the fact that they will be more cold-resistant, and will grow better and faster than the species grown in pots. Direct planting of flowers is possible only if your winter garden has a transparent roof, so that the plants get as little deformation as possible in their search for light . Plants directly planted in the soil in gardens with non-transparent roofs, will get deformated in their search for light and will eventually loose their decorative effect. In the winter gardens with non-transparent roofs, the plants need to be placed in containers which could be rotated on a regular basis.
  4. It is better to choose subtropical flower species or even species from the temperate climate regions for your winter garden. They have a very gentle decorative effect during the winter months. If you manage to pick the perfect plant cast, even if the temperature falls under 0°C there won’t be any problem whatsoever. Some of the most popular subtropical flower species, to be used in your winter garden, are: Oleander, Hebe, Olea, Flavored Olea (Osmantus), Tangerine, Cycas, Archontophoenix (especially the Canary Archontophoenix), Trachycarpus, Chamaerops, Washingtonia, most types of Opuntia and Echeveria (it is imperative to keep their soil dry during the winter months), almost all species and sorts of Pelargonium, Azalea,  Paciflora,  Cyclamen and so on and so forth. Some annual plants like the Petunia, the Tropaeolum and most of the garden Impatiens sultani develop very well in the cool winter gardens and they blossom abundantly during the whole winter.  These species are less resistant to temperature falls below 0°C. In the winter gardens you can grow some flower species which can be grown outdoors:  Magnolia grandiflora, Lagerstroemia, Fatsia, Fatshedera, Hedera sorts, evergreen sorts as Lugustrum, Aucuba, Ilex, Nandina, cold-resistant species as the Bambusa etc.
  5. Arrangement of plants in large containers is not practical in the winter gardens with non-transparent roofs, because the containers need to be rotated, and when they are too heavy, this becomes quite hard to do. Another problem would be that all plants in the large container should be able to get direct sun light when rotated and this won’t be possible. Even more, such types of arrangements are not suitable for the balconies, where it is inappropriate to store large and heavy gardening equipment. To create an effect similar to the large container arrangement, you can arrange many small pots in the desired way and place them in a shallow container, and the space between them can be filled with perlite or some other inert material. In this way you will not increase the weight of the container and the advantage will be that every plant can be rotated on its own.
  6. Winter gardens without heating systems are recommended for their low cost and They are effective only in the warmer southern places or in places sheltered from the cold in the cities, for example built immediately next to a building with a heating system. The effective accumulation of warmth is very important in winter gardens without heating, and that is why they have to be isolated well.
  7. If you are not sure if you have chosen the most appropriate cold-resistant plants for your unheated winter garden, you can install some sort of heating system which will turn on if temperature falls under certain degree. It would be most effective if the heating system starts when temperature reaches 0°C. Usually the utmost values that are used are -3 up to -10°C, and the specific temperature depends solely on the plant species. By falling under this value, the heating turns on and works until the appropriate temperature is reached. Having in mind that such temperatures are rare or appear for a short period, the heating system in your winter garden should only work for a short period.
  8. You should maintain optimal microclimate in the winter gardens so that you avoid damage of the plants. Another very important factor, besides temperature, is humidity. Usually high humidity is a problem during the winter because proper ventilation is limited, as opposed to summer, when low humidity can create serious problems. In the unheated winter gardens, you should water the plants sparingly, which when combined with lower temperatures leads to less evaporated water and lower air humidity as a whole. In the heated winter gardens, the heating and the specific plant species presuppose the need of regular watering, which adds to the large increase in air humidity. The easiest and most commonly used way of air humidity control is to periodically air the room. You conduct the airing in the warmest hours of the day (usually in the afternoon) or at dusk. In the coldest days it is not necessary to air the room, since in this case humidity is condensed on the windows and if your winter garden is properly created, the humidity should drain away and not create problems. Open water areas, such as small fountains will have a positive effect, but will inevitably take up a lot of space, and during the winter they can cause additional problems.
  9. Even in the heated winter gardens, it is recommended to use mostly durable plant species, which can easily cope with lower temperatures, while the warm-loving and exotic plants are used more as decoration or as accent. The major difference between the two types of winter gardens is that, in the gardens with heating there are more blossoming and more colorful flowers.
  10. Heated winter gardens are more pleasant for relaxation and spending your free time during the coldest moths, while the unheated gardens are attractive usually in late fall and early spring, when the weather is comparatively warm (with average temperature above 0°C). In February and March, in the sunny and warm days the temperature in an unheated winter garden can reach values of +25°C. The two types of winter gardens can be used for rest and relaxation during the fall-winter period.

Types of fertilizers and their use

FertilizersFertilizing the plants is crucial for their proper growth and development. Flowers are notoriously picky about the nutrients of their soil. Quantity and quality of the nutrients are very important, as well as the need for particular nutritious elements during the different stages of plant’s development. In general, young plants are the ones most sensitive towards concentration of nutrients. Through changes in the content, quantity and the schedule according to which we introduce fertilizers, flowers growth could be regulated, the development rate could be increased or decreased, and the proportion between vegetative and generative organs (through which blossom is formed) could be altered. It is known for a fact that fertilization introduces considerable opportunities for the production of plants with abundant blossoms, continuous and intensive flowering and bright coloring. It could also increase the quantity and quality of the corms, bulbs and seeds.

Types of fertilizers

Depending on the objectives we have in mind, we can use different types of fertilizers. There is a great variety in fertilizers and they can be grouped according to different characteristics. Thus we have organic and mineral fertilizers, depending on the compounds present in their nutritious elements; Direct and indirect – depending on the way they work. These can work either as direct sources of nutrients or as indirect ones, by improving the feeding conditions for the plants.

As far as organic fertilizers go, the most widely used ones are manure, worm castings, compost, seaweed, guano, or naturally occurring mineral deposits (e.g. saltpeter). Their influence is both direct and indirect, because they contain almost all nutritious elements and improve the physical, chemical and biological properties of the soil considerably.

In the mineral fertilizers, the nutritious elements are the mineral compounds, therefore they act directly. According to the prevailing element, these fertilizers fall into three categories: nitrogenous, phosphorus and potassium.

Nitrogenous fertilizers

They are further subdivided into groups depending on the state of nitrogen in them – nitrate, ammonium, ammonium-nitrate and amid fertilizers.

Nitrogenous fertilizers are also called saltpetre. Here nitrogen is in its nitric state (NO3). The nitrogen content is about 15%. These fertilizers are physiologically alkaline and are suitable for acid soil. Most widely used are potassium nitrate and sodium nitrate.

In ammonium fertilizers the nitrogen is in its ammonium state (NH4). Physiologically, these are acid fertilizers and are used on alkaline soil. For most ammonium fertilizers the nitrogen content is 20-25%. Most widely used are ammonium sulphate and ammonium chloride.

In ammonium-nitrate fertilizers, nitrogen is present in its two absorbable forms – ammonium and nitrate. Most widely used is the ammonium nitrate, or the ammonium saltpetre.The nitrogen content in this fertilizer is greater – between 33-35%.

Usually, the ammonium nitrate is physiologically neutral and can be used on different types of soil. Plants absorb the nitrite nitrogen first , then the ammonium nitrogen, which makes it possible for the ammonium saltpeter to be active, for longer period.

As for the amid fertilizers, urea(carbamide) is the most common one. Characteristic feature of it is that the nitrogen in it is in its organic state, but easily transforms into mineral state. Urea is the most densely concentrated of all solid nitrogen fertilizers. Its nitrogen content is about 46%. Among its specific properties is that it can be absorbed not only through the roots, but through the leaves as well. This fertilizer is a universal one, suitable for all types of plants and soils.

Phosphorus fertilizers

Phosphorus fertilizers fall into categories according to their solubility. Most widely used are the ones that dissolve easily, like the common and the concentrated superphosphate. The phosphorus oxide (P2O5)  content in the common phosphate is between 15-20%. The concentrated one contains 45-54% P2O5. Potassium sulphate contains 48% potassium oxide (K2O).

Semi-soluble phosphorus fertilizers are precipitates, thermo-phosphate,  coconut flour. The slowly dissolving ones include bone dust and phosphorus dust.
There is no typical classification for the potassium fertilizers. Widely used are potassium chloride and potassium sulphate. Potassium sulphate is a highly concentrated potassium fertilizer, containing 50-60% potassium oxide. Potassium sulphate contains 48% potassium oxide.

The different properties of the mineral fertilizers define the various ways in which they are used in order for the nutritious elements to be fully absorbed and negative reactions such as turning the soil acid or alkaline to be prevented.

  • Nitrogenous fertilizers are fast acting and are used to stimulate plants growth.
  • Phosphorous fertilizers are slowly soluble. They are used for intensifying blossom growth.
  • Potassium fertilizers are easily soluble and are used in the same way as phosphorous fertilizers.

In recent years, a lot of liquid fertilizers have come into use. The proportion between nitrogen N, phosphorus P and potassium K is different i n them. It is noted on the label. The amounts to be used should also be noted on the label. Among the best liquid fertilizers are those containing both micro-elements and vitamins.

We should always take into account the type of plants we are fertilizing and in what stage of development are they. For example, young or small plants need less fertilizing. During the vegetation period, in spring and summer, more fertilizer is required. Weak solutions could be used to fertilize on weekly basis – for example, one year old plants, or older, often situated on the balcony or in a flower bed. As for pot flowers, they are very different from one another and we need to take into account their type and nutritious needs. There are liquid fertilizers for specific groups of plants, like the Orchid, or different ornamental plants, blossoming plants, Bromelia-like flowers, etc.

Remember that before fertilization or nutrition, plants must be watered, so that the chemicals do not affect roots directly. During autumn and winter, fertilizing at home is not recommended.

 

 

Ten useful tips on how to take care of indoor plants

Different indoor plants require different amounts of moisture, light, warmth and feeding. That fully depends on their origin, whether it would be forests or deserts, marsh lands or mild subtropical climate.

Here are the ten useful tips on how to take care of indoor plants

Do not drown the plants.
Roots need not just water, but air as well. The constant overwatering of the soil is a sure death for the majority of plants. Learn to water them properly.

Ensure peace for your plants.
Beginner gardeners are usually very surprised when they find out that almost all indoor plants need peace in winter, that is, plants require less water and nutrients, and they need to be kept in rooms with a lower temperature, unlike in the periods of active growth.

Accepts the inevitable loss of some flowers.
Flowers such as Cyclamen Persicum, Chrysanthemum and Gloxinia which are often given as gifts, innevitably wither after a few weeks. This is not your fault – all ornamental pot flowers are not meant to last long.

Provide your plants with humid environment.
In winter the air in rooms with central heating is as dry as the air in a desert. Learn how to increase the humidity levels.

Take precautions on time.
Beginners as well as experienced florists face troubles alike. A couple of aphids could easily be coped with if caught on time. But if they have already covered the entire plant, fight against them becomes almost useless. Overwatering is dangerous to some extend, but if the plant is being “drowned” in water for a long period, it will die. Learn to spot problems on time.

Keep the plants in groups.
Almost all plants look better and grow stronger when they are arranged in groups. Learn how to arrange them properly.

Learn how to transplant.
About a year or two after flowers have been planted, they lose some of their beauty. In such case, what a flower needs is, above all, a transplantation. Learn how to do that.

Choose the right plant for you.
You should choose your plants according to the conditions you can provide for them. Even a highly experienced florist could not possibly grow a shade-loving plant by a sunny window.

Supply all the proper tools.
Buy a watering can with a long and narrow nose. To increase humidity levels and fight the dust and pests, buy a nozzle. You will also need good soil, several pots, some wooden pegs and ropes. The pot pads protect the furniture from the water, and the can with nutrients and reliable insecticide will provide healthy grow for the plants. In your toolkit, you should also have a sponge, some old forks and spoons, a tool for leaves polishing and a couple of middle sized gardening scissors.

Take proper care for each and every plant.

Schlumbergera is easily grown at home

SchlumbergeraTake care of it with lots of love and it will cheer you up with blossoms for Christmas.

Schlumbergera is the most widely spread cactus, although few people are aware of its relation to the thorny desert flowers. It blossoms in the peak of the tropical summer, which coincides with the coldest winter months in the North hemisphere. Since indoor plants do not change their habits, exactly during the Christmas holidays, our homes light up with its abundant, opulent blossoms.

Schlumbergera is an Epiphyte kind of flower that looks like Rhipsalidopsis x Graeseri and people often mistake one for the other.

Schlumbergera doesn’t like direct sun light. It should be kept in cool. well lit rooms until autumn. On hot days it needs to be sprinkled with equal amounts of water every time until flower buds are formed.

Schlumbergera’s reproduction is easy and takes place in the beginning of summer through its different segments. Any part of the stem, cut at the joint could be planted to create a new stem. Since the stem is pulpy you should wait for it to wilt a bit before planting. It is recommended that you dip the cut stem in wood ash. When transplanting the flower into a bigger pot, use nutritious but water-permeable soil, such as turf mixed with sand and soil containing pieces of leaves.

When the flower blossoms, sprinkle it with cool water. When the blossoms wilt, gradually stop sprinkling and leave it in a cool room. When temperatures increase, put the flower in a windless spot and keep the substrate moisturized. During the blossoming period feed the soil with liquid fertilizer with high potassium content.

Watering  regularly and moderately. Keep humidity levels comparatively high.

Feeding is to take place once a month during spring and summer. The pot for this unusual flower shouldn’t be too big, but should be filled with a rich, nutritious mix. The Schlumbergera is to be transplanted every 3-4 years, in August, when its repose period takes place.

Proper watering technique

OverwateringEverybody knows which are the two most important factors for the well being of every plant: light and water. And while we could easily cope with issues caused by light, the most frequent mistake that any well intended, but inexperienced gardener could make is overwatering.

Different flowers demand different amounts of water – some could die by the slightest dryness of the soil, while others die from overwatering, and still some plants need to be watered only after the soil is really dry. Finally, there are plants that need watering just once a month, no matter how dry their soil gets. And all those types of flowers and evergreens are to be watered extremely carefully during the winter – a crucial period for many house plants, that originate from tropical forests.

Soil moisture depends on the type of your pot – non-glazed clay pots are porous, meaning they absorb and retain moisture and flowers in such pots need to be watered frequently, which is not the case with glazed, porcelain and plastic pots. Problems could be caused also by pots without any drainage holes. Although it is not recommended to plant flowers in such pots, we often do it to prevent leaks on the wooden floor or the expensive carpet. In such case, the flowers must receive less water, less frequently, since the water is retained at the bottom of the pot. Watch out for the tiniest signs of overwatering: tips of the leaves colored in yellow, leaves shrinking in the shape of tubes, fallen leaves, browning on the sides or tip of the leaves.

The best way to tell if your plant needs watering is to feel the soil at about 1 inch depth. If it is dry, pour some water, if not, don’t water it, but keep checking every day. In summer it would not be a big disaster if you overwater your plant, since at higher temperatures plants need more water, but in winter, overwatering could be fatal.

Every gardener knows how to water their plants  from personal experience. Some say that the right way is to pour water over the plant, others claim that water should be poured on the pad, under the pot for the plant to absorb it. Our advise to those who don’t have their own watering habits, yet, is the following: as soon as you make sure your plant needs water, you can pour warm water (always better than cold water) into the soil and continue to pour until the water starts draining through the drainage holes.

Leave the plant to drain (either over the sink or on its pad) for about 10 minutes and then remove the water from the pad, because a pot plant should not be left to soak in water. Now your plant is properly watered and soon you will be able to tell, without a doubt, when it needs watering again.

Image resources:

http://www.waterconservation.co.za/2010/03/10/water-wise-gardening/