Shrubs, Trees, Vines

Russelia equisetiformis – firecracker plant

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Russelia equisetiformisGrown in many parts of the world, the Russelia is among the most common garden plants and is easily recognizable for its bright red or white blossoms in the shape of tall slim vases. This plant is often used to hide unattractive walls or fences, because of its thick greenery. It grows up to 5,9 feet tall. Because of its height, the Russelia is suitable for growing in hanging pots. The charming blossoms of the Russelia attract birds and insects (such as bees), that feed on its nectar.

The Russelia likes sunny spots. In summer – take it on the balcony under direct sunlight; to provide it with the necessary warmth and light during winter, put the plant by a window facing south and make sure the temperature is about 15ºC.

Watering

In summer, the plant requires plenty of water, but before you water it, make sure the upper layer of soil is dry. Make sure the roots do not retain water. In winter, it requires very little watering and the water temperature should be close to the room temperature – major differences in temperature do not benefit the plant.

Propagation

This plant propagates in summer through sprouts or cuttings. During the active period of growth, feed with mineral fertilizer. In spring, transplant it in a middle sized pot filled with clay garden soil.

Easy propagation of vines

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Red vinesFall is the most appropriate season for propagation by layering of such climbing plants as the Hydrangea, the Clematis and the Honeysuckle (Lonicera).

At first you should not separate the layers from the parent plant since it provides them with the necessary nutrients.

1. Select the stem which is situated closest to the soil.Using a sharp knife, make a cut about 2.5cm long up and into the stem, going no deeper than the center of the stem. You should remove all leaves from the stem (above and below the cutting).

2. Carefully bend the stem to the ground and place it in a 6 cm to 8 cm deep hole. Make a u-turn threading rod and fix the stem to the bottom of the hole. Cover up with soil. Bend the tip into a vertical position and stake it in place. Water well on a regular basis to make sure the soil is moist.

3. In about a year, the plant will form strong stems in the place of the layer and the it can grow on its own. Now is the time to separate the layer from the parent plant and to plant it in the garden, in a previously prepared spot.

A green fence of shrubs will keep the neighbors away

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Green shrubsIt is often the case that your neighbors would be irritated when plants that are too tall get in the ways of their property.

In this case, if your garden is to small, you can make a green fence, which will also protect you from the neighbors’ curiosity. At the very border between your properties, you can plant shrubs  that do not grow taller then 6-7 feet. Such shrubs are the spiraea, the Kerria Japonica and the Illex Vomitoria. Behind them, on a second row you could plant taller plants such as the forsythia, the Philadelphus or the Viburnum. Over the years they spread and grow into a thick wall. And even if there are empty spots in the lower parts of the plants, the smaller shrubs from the first row will fill them up.

The third row could be planted with Prunus sargentii, Acer ginnala, Malus or Amelanchier. And thus, if on the one side, under their crowns you have the abovementioned shrubs, on the other side, you would have space left for shade-loving plants. Thus, you will not lose an inch of space in your yard.

Image resources:

http://www.publicdomainpictures.net/view-image.php?image=18372&picture=green-shrubs

Planting shrubs and trees

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Shrubs and treesOften, when trees and bushes are delivered by mail, they come with their roots exposed (bare root) and in a “stand by” state. Broad-leaved plants come with some bare twigs and the evergreen plants are in a “stand by” state. Soil is completely washed off from their roots and for transportation purposes they are usually wrapped in damp paper, moss or wood shavings. Thus their transportation becomes relatively cheap. Bare root plants are usually younger. Few plants are sold in a container or with soil on their roots, wrapped in canvas. These plants are cheaper and the important thing about them is that you have much more plants to choose from.

Important factors

You can plant them in any time of the year. The Fall, however, is the best time to plant bare root or container trees and bushes. If you put off their planting, try to preserve the moisture by storing the plants wrapped and in a cool, damp and shady place. Several hours before planting them unwrap the tree or bush and soak the roots for a while in warm water. When you hold the plants, be careful not to damage the roots. After planting a bare root plant, you must water it. Do not put any fertilizers at this point, but after they begin developing in spring.

For trees and bushes the depth at which you plant them is very important. It does not matter what types of saplings you are planting – bare rooted, container ones or those coming with soil on their roots. What is important is not to plant them too deep. When you position the plant in the pit, make sure the upper part of the roots is visible and is a bit higher than the ground level.

If it is too late, hide them in the ground

If for some reason you are not able to plant the bare root plants right away, then you should hide them in the ground in order to preserve them moisturized and protected. Dig in the ground a small trench or use a pile of leaves to make mulch or a compost pit. Place the roots of the plant in this little pit and add soil or compost, but do not tamp over it. Water it and leave it at that.

How to plant?

  1. Dig a pit that is big enough so that the roots of the plants fit in it without being squeezed. When you put the plant in its whole, the whole must be so deep, that the plant can stand at the same level above the ground as before.
  2. Take the roots and gently and carefully wash the residual shavings, moss and waste. If you notice dead or damaged roots, cut them until you see healthy tissue.
  3. Soak the roots in water: Pour warm water in a bucket and leave the plant in it for a few hours. The better you moisturize the tissue, the better the plant will develop.
  4. Tamp the soil on the bottom of the pit so that a cone is formed. The depth must be such that the upper part of the roots is at the ground level.
  5. Cut off the dead parts. If the plant is healthy and the manual does not say cutting is required, you do not need to cut anything.
  6. Fix the position of the upper part of the roots. When planting it is very important that the roots are positioned at a certain level and that they are distributed evenly throughout the tamped cone shape of the pit.
  7. Cover with soil. First, cover half of the pit and pour some water; Thus you will eliminate the voids and will once again check the depth.
  8. Cover the rest of the pit. Tamp lightly to fix the plant in position. Make a trench around the plant.
  9. Pour water once again. This will fix the soil. Cover with a 2-3 inches of much made of shredded leaves, or from the rind of a tree. The mulch will impede weed growth and will keep the soil moist. Do not use any fertilizers!

 

Image resources:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Sheringham_Park_1.JPG

Annual bedding plants

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What would you guess is one of the fastest growing trends in gardening? The answer is more color in the landscape using annual bedding plants. Bedding plants are primarily annual crops grown in “beds”. The most common varieties are annual flowers, vegetable transplants, herbs and a few herbaceous perennials. In some years ago, the favorite bedding plants in terms of numbers sold were impatiens, petunia, cutting geranium, vinca, pansy and begonia.

Now, let me give you my list of top performers that should be used more in hot summers. These plants may not be beautiful in the traditional way that you are used to seeing color according to the flower. Instead, many of these have striking foliage that offer great color, as well as diverse texture.

  • Lantana (lantana camara)
  • Firebush (hamelia patens)
  • Joseph’s Coat (alternantha ficoidea)
  • Scaevola (scaevola aemula
  • Coleus (coleus species)
  • Wedelia (wedelia trilobata)
  • Copper Leaf (acalphya wilkesiana)
  • Nierembergia (nierembergia species)
  • Iresine (iresine lindenii)
  • Starflower (pentas lanceolata)

A great bedding flower introduced to florists in 1996 is the “Fantasy” series petunia. This petunia has also been dubbed “Milliflora” which implies thousands of tiny flowers. Now I don’t know if you’ll get thousands of flowers on a plant, but “Fantasy” is definitely a new class of petunia. It has a compact growth habit with continuous flowering, unlike the traditional and most commonly used trailing varieties. The flowers are smaller, very showy, and available in seven colors. The miniature habit of “Fantasy” makes them ideal for containers, window boxes, hanging baskets, as well as border and edging plantings.

The suggested bedding flowers and shrubs may not be easy to find at your local retail garden center But, if you give them the Botanical name they should be able to locate them from their wholesale sources (remember customer requests usually result in better supply). One reason these particular bedding plants may not be readily available is due to the customers first impression to the plant at the garden center. Take Firebush for example. It looks pretty sad in the small pot where it has been grown in a relatively cool greenhouse. Plant it outside in the heat and it will provide you with height, colorful foliage, and small flowers for the hummingbirds.

The majority of these annual varieties prefer full sun. As a matter of fact, it is best to plant them in late April when the soil temperatures really start to warm up. These beauties get better and better as the summer gets hotter. Joseph’s Coat, Copper Plant, Coleus, and Wedelia can tolerate some minimal shade. However, plants that prefer sun can loose some of their striking color when grown in too much shade. The exception is Iresine which performs in shade or sun.

Request information on the potential growing height for the varieties you select. Some can grow three feet tall like Firebush and Copper Leaf, while others like Wedelia are very aggressive ground covers. Generally locate the taller plants in the back of the beds and the smaller ones near the front. Most bedding plants grow best in soils that have been amended with organic matter and drain well. Consistent fertilizer applications are also very important when growing bedding plants. This can be accomplished by using a complete analysis, slow release fertilizer or applications of water soluble fertilizer according to directions.

Growing annual bedding plants

You’ll enjoy the beauty and low maintenance aspects of growing these annuals even more if you’ll also mulch the beds. I like to use cotton seed hulls because they pack down nicely and allow water and oxygen movement. I till them into the soil at the end of the growing season to add organic matter. A cotton plant or two may germinate in the mulch, but they are easy to remove. These bedding plants known to thrive in the heat will still need an occasional watering during drought times and especially for a few weeks after planting. They are generally not bothered with insects or diseases. None-the-less, always keep an eye out for pests, especially under stressed growing conditions.

So, give these a try if you are wanting annual bedding plants that love summer! And, don’t give up on trying to locate a source. Your neighbors will also be raving over the color and texture in your landscape – color that should last right up until frost!

Hibiscus syriacus – Rose of Sharon

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Hibiscus syriacus is a widely cultivated ornamental shrub in the genus Hibiscus.

Below are 3 of its different species.

Morning Star ~ An American hybrid Althea/Rose of Sharon, ‘Morning Star,’ with beautiful, 3-4 inch, fully double white flowers that have bright red stippling in the center. These are number 1 well rooted plants about 30 inches high.

Lavender Chiffon ~ A whole new look for Hardy Hibiscus! Large (4-5 inch) double lavender flowers adorned with a lacy center to create an anemone-like bloom. You’ll also appreciate this plant’s strong growth. Hybridized by Dr. Roderick Woods of England. Awards: Gold Medal Royal Boskoop Horticulture Society. Lavender Chiffon is hardy in zones 5 to 8; blooms from summer to frost, grows about 6 to 8 feet tall and about as wide.

White Chiffon ~ Breathtaking! Large single white flowers adorned with a lacy center to create an anemone-like bloom. You’ll also appreciate this plant’s strong growth. Hybridized by Dr. Roderick Woods of England. Awards: Silver Medal Royal Boskoop Horticulture Society. Truly an outstandingly beautiful companion for ‘Lavender Chiffon’, White Chiffon produces 4-5 inch double, lacy pure wedding white blooms. It is hardy in zones 5 to 8, blooms from summer to frost, and reaches about 6 to 8 feet tall and about as wide at maturity.

Image resources:

www.pendernursery.com/Catalog/Detail/hibiscussyriacusmorningstar.html
www.deeproot.co.uk/pbo/plantdetail.php?plantname=Hibiscus+syriacus+6I927White+Chiffon6I927
www.djroger.com/lavender%20chiffon.htm

Gardenias are very pretentious flowers

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gardeniaGardenias are extremely beautiful flowering plants in the coffee family, most famous of which is the Gardenia jasminoides. Its creamy flowers look amazing on the dark green background made of its leaves. Combined with the flower’s calming scent makes it a great indoor and outdoor flower.

Gardenias are native to the tropical and subtropical regions of Africa, southern Asia, Australasia and Oceania. They can be grown as shrubs or a small trees. Unfortunately the Gardenia flowering plants are very pretentious towards temperature and watering and if you want to grow one you have to provide it with special treatment. If you want it to bloom, the temperature in the room should be 15-17 C (62 F) at night and 20 C (68 F) during the day. If the temperature is volatile the flowers will fall off. It likes indirect bright light and does not like to be moved around. It cannot even stand to be turned around. The Gardenia should be watered constantly. The soil should always be moist and it should not be dried out in winter. Pulverizing it is a good idea too.

 

 

Image resources:

www.mgonline.com/articles/gardenia.aspx
www.dealrocker.over-blog.com/article-gardenia-plants-lasting-gift-of-blooming-beauty-and-sweet-fragrance-54193182.html

 

Popular Hydrangea species

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With its colorful blossom and big leafs, the Hydrangea is typical garden shrub.

Here are some of the most popular Hydrangea species:

  • Most popular is Hydrangea macrophylla. It is also known as Hortensia, Big leaf Hydrangea, French Hydrangea, Lacecap Hydrangea, Mophead Hydrangea. It originates from Japan. Appropriate place to grow it is next to the fence. It has colorful blossom in blue, purple and pink shades. The color depends on the soil that is grown in.
  • Next in the list is the bi-color Hydrangea specie called “Lady Taiko Blue“. It blooms in blue and purple with white color on the edge. It can grow to 125 cm(50 inches) and it definitely attracts attention with it’s beauty.
  • Another popular type of Hydrangea is Hydrangea paniculata “Praecox”. It’s blooms in white and pink . It grows up to 2,5 – 3 m (10 feet). To keep it compact you need to trim it in October.
  • The last in the list is a very interesting Hydrangea type. It’s name is Hydrangea aspera. It originates from Asia. What is typical about it is that it can grow up to 4 m (13 feet). It has beautiful velvet color.

Image resources:

www.greencombe.org.uk/jul.html
www.growsonyou.com/photo/slideshow/163202-hydrangea-lady-taiko-blue/all
www.flickr.com/photos/pingu1963/1048305551/
www.sbg.org.uk/plantmonth805.asp

Choisya ternata – Mexican Orange Blossom

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ChoisyaIf you like fragrant plants you may like to try growing Choisya ternata, also known as Mexican Orange Blossom.

The Choisya is an evergreen bush which can grow up to a meter (2 feet) in height even if grown in a big pot. It has beautiful, glossy green leafs and white blossom with very nice and sweet scent. Its country of origin is Mexico.  It blooms from May to June, and if grown in a cooler winter garden it may bloom even earlier.

The Choisya is winter resistant. It can stand temperatures below -10 C (14 F). However it is better to keep it in place where temperature does not go below 5 C (41 F). It does not need too much watering in the winter . And if you have to transplant it you can do that in February. If kept in a warmer place during the winter the Choisya can be attacked by pests such as Pythium. The Mexican Orange Blossom is propagated from semi-hardwood cuttings.

 

Secrets of success in growing Choysia ternata:mexican orange choisya

  • It is most appropriate to grow the Choisya ternata in light, sunny spot. It can grow in shadowy places too, but then it will have a weaker bloom.
  • If grown in a sunny spot you need to water it abundantly from April to August, but do not over water.
  • It is a good idea to trim the Choisya after it blooms.

 

Image resources:

www.mooseyscountrygarden.com/shrubs/choisya-shrub-white-flower.html